Five Experiences to Find Magic in Umbria
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Often overshadowed by its glamorous neighbour Tuscany, Umbria offers a different, deeper kind of magic. Landlocked and lush, it’s known as Italia Verde (“Italy’s Green Heart”)—a region of mystical forests, silent valleys, and hilltop towns that seem to breathe spirituality. It’s a place for slowing down, savouring, and connecting with a more ancient, authentic Italy. Here are five ways to find its soul.
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1 – Walk in the Footsteps of Saints (and Artists) in Assisi
More than a town, Assisi is an emotion. The birthplace of St. Francis, its pink-hued stone seems to glow with a serene, uplifting energy. This is a place for quiet contemplation and artistic awe.
- The Basilica di San Francesco: Do not rush this. Marvel at the revolutionary Giotto frescoes in the Upper Church, telling the life of St. Francis with profound humanity. Then descend to the Lower Church, a hushed, candlelit space of deep devotion, home to masterpieces by Cimabue and Simone Martini.
- The Walk of Peace: Follow the pilgrims’ path from the Basilica through olive groves to the Eremo delle Carceri—the secluded hermitage where Francis prayed in the woods. The only sounds are birdsong and rustling leaves.
Stay at: Casale Condotti
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2 – Feast on the Land: Truffles, Wine & Farm-to-Table Food
Umbrian cuisine is robust, earthy, and deeply tied to the forest and field. It’s a paradise for lovers of black truffles, wild boar (cinghiale), and lentils.
- Truffle Hunting: Book an experience with a trifolau (truffle hunter) and his dog near Norcia. Walking the oak woods and unearthing the “black gold” is thrilling, followed by a lunch where it’s shaved generously over pasta, eggs, or bruschetta.
- Visit a Sagre (Village Food Festival): In summer and fall, villages host festivals celebrating a single ingredient. Join locals at long tables for the Sagra della Lenticchia (lentil festival in Castelluccio) or the Sagra del Tartufo (truffle festival).
- Sip Sagrantino: In the picture-perfect town of Montefalco, taste the mighty Sagrantino wine—a powerful, tannic red that is Umbria in a glass.
Stay at: Casa di Luce
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3 – Discover the “Dead City” of Civita di Bagnoregio
This is one of Italy’s most dramatic sights. Civita di Bagnoregio, the “Dying Town,” sits atop a crumbling tufa pinnacle, accessible only by a steep, narrow footbridge.
- The Journey: Walking the bridge feels like crossing into another century. The town, slowly being reclaimed by erosion, is a silent maze of medieval lanes, vines, and quiet piazzas.
- The Magic: It’s a profound lesson in beauty and transience. Have a coffee in the main square, peer over the edges at the epic valleys below, and soak in an atmosphere unlike anywhere else.
Stay at: Casale Bellavista
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4 – Cruise the Mystical Waters of Lake Trasimeno
Umbria’s great lake offers a gentle, sun-drenched contrast to the hill towns. Its mood is leisurely, its history deep (site of a colossal ancient battle where Hannibal defeated the Romans).
- Island Hop: Take a ferry from Passignano sul Trasimeno to Isola Maggiore. This is not Capri; it’s a quiet fishing island where time stands still. Walk the path St. Francis took, enjoy a lakeside lunch of perch (persico), and browse handmade lace.
- Lakeside Passeggiata: In the evening, join families for the traditional stroll along the promenades of Castiglione del Lago, then dine on grilled lake fish as the sun sets over the water.
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5 – Unlock the Secrets of Perugia (It’s Not Just Chocolate)
Umbria’s vibrant capital is a layered city, literally. Beneath the modern streets lies a complete Rocca Paolina—a Renaissance fortress built over a medieval city. You can wander its subterranean streets, a ghostly and unforgettable experience.
- For Art Lovers: The Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria houses an unparalleled collection of Umbrian Renaissance art, from Perugino (Raphael’s teacher) to Pinturicchio.
- For Foodies: Yes, indulge in Perugina chocolate. But also explore the covered market for local cheese and salumi, then end the day with an aperitivo in the buzzing Piazza IV Novembre, dominated by the stunning Fontana Maggiore.
Photo by Sterling Lanier on Unsplash
